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1989-04-05
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ CONNECTING A MICROSOFT™ MOUSE TO THE ATARI ST ~
~ ~
~ by Dave Henniker ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I recently saw an article about this in an Australian disk magazine
(Inside Info #58), so I printed it out and thought I'd give it a try. At
work I have mice lying about in various distressed states. There was one
of Bill Gates' beasties with a damaged mini DIN plug which seemed ideal
for the purpose.
As the author from Oz (Jeff Beadles) said in his article, a serial
mouse is no good. For example, the PC TrueMouse is different inside from
Evesham Micros' TrueMouse for the Atari ST. Serial mice have a similar
plug to the ST - a 9 pin female D plug, but you need one with the mini
DIN connector. This type is known as a bus mouse.
Jeff Beadles' instructions confused me somewhat and I gave up on
them and decided to open up the MS mouse and poke about in its innards. I
used a hairdrier to heat up the sticky label, and it peeled off easily,
revealing two screws. Remember this trick if you want to remove a sticky
label! With care you can put it back without it being obviously tampered
with. Unlike most mice, the MS mouse has no active electronics at all.
There's no optical sensors, no slotted wheels and no chips. Instead
there's two rotating switches for movement detection in the X and Y axes,
and two microswitches for the two buttons.
In the unlikely event that you have a damaged bus card to
cannibalise, don't be tempted to unsolder the weird looking socket. This
will not simplify connecting the mouse to the ST; it's easier just to cut
the plug off and solder the wires directly to a 9 pin female D plug. The
pins are numbered as shown near the back of the ST manual. The view shown
corresponds to the solder-side view of the plug, ie it is not a mirror
image.
My mouse bears the following distinguishing characteristics:
Microsoft (on top)
InPort™Mouse (underneath)
FCC ID: C3K7PNINPORTPC
Microsoft Corporation
Made in Japan
serial number 716386
If you think yours is similar then the colours of the wires are
probably the same, and should be connected to the same pins as shown
below. This type of plug, although the same as the one on Atari mice,
will have protruding flanges and a plastic shell. This will make it tend
to fall out of the mouse socket if you don't have a mouse / joystick
cable extension.
RED BROWN YELLOW ORANGE
∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙
1 2 3 4 5
(SOLDER SIDE)
6 7 8 9
∙ ∙ ∙ ∙
GREEN BLACK BLUE
There is no need to connect the outer screening to ground or the
metal shell of the plug; just cut it off. The black wire is ground
(earth) and is common to all six switches. In other words, when you press
the left button, pin 6 (green) is grounded by the switch. If the mouse is
moved then the rotating switches connect and disconnect to ground and
thus send out a train of on/off pulses.
If you are in doubt it's fairly easy to trace the wire colours to
the switches if you open up the mouse. An meter with an audible beep is
useful here. There are two rotating switches, each has three wires and
houses a pair of switches. I take no responsibilty if you damage
anything! This is unlikely as there is no 5 Volt supply used. Do not
connect any wires to pin 7 of the D plug!
In use the mouse fairly zips along. Ideal for WP and general use on
the desktop etc. Perhaps too frisky for games like Super Breakout or for
pixel punching in a paint program. It's exceedingly well-hung with a
heavy ball. Has anybody got a mouse decellerator?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
==========================================================================
* MICROSOFT MOUSE TO THE ST by Jeff Beadles
==========================================================================
Z*Net International Atari Online Magazine
-----------------------------------------
March 27, 1992 Issue #92-13
Here is what I've experienced. You can forget about a serial mouse
for the ST. They are not compatible with the ST mouse. But you can
connect a bus mouse to the ST, I have done it. I have a Microsoft bus
mouse connected to my ST and it is great. The following are some
instructions I got off one of the ST ftp sites about that subject and
is what I followed to connect the Microsoft mouse to my machine.
Here's a re-post of my article of way back (Feb 1989) on how to hook
an Microsoft mouse to an Atari ST. No software changes are required.
All it takes is creating a special cable between the mouse and the
Atari.
I've been using a Microsoft mouse now for around 2 years on my 1040,
with nary a glitch. It's so much better than the Atari mouse, I'd
never go back. (IMHO)
Well, here is how to connect a Microsoft Mouse to an Atari ST.
(520/1040) The Atari has a 9-pin D-type connector. The Microsoft Mouse
has a rather strange connector on the end. To prevent having to cut
the mouse cable up, I made this adaptor. If you still can't follow it,
please let me know and I'll try to redescribe it. This does work for
me. I've been using it for 6 or so months now [Note, it's been 2 years
now!] with no problems at all. It does take some soldering skills, so
if you're not so hot at soldering, find a friend to help.
As far as I know, this does not effect your Atari's warranty. However,
I have not asked Atari.
Atari ST Microsoft Mouse ST expected signal
----- -- --------- ----- -- -------- ------
1 5 XB
2 3 XA
3 8 YA
4 9 YB
5 N/C N/C
6 2 Left button
7 N/C +5VDC (N/C)
8* 6 and also tie to pin 1 Ground
9 7 Right button
* = I am not sure why I have pins 6 & 1 tied together, but it does work.
The Microsoft mouse connector looks like this. This is the solder side,
with the leads pointing up.
---------------
| 1 |
| 2 3 4 5 |
| 6 7 8 9 10 |
| |
---------------
If you can not use the connector, the pins are numbered as follows.
This is the connector side from the Microsoft Mouse plug:
/------------\ This is a view at the front of the connector.
/ Blank "KEY" \ It is where the plug from the mouse would be.
/----------------\ The pin labeled 'n' is not connected.
| n 4 X 8 | The place labeled 'X' is filled, and does not
| 9 7 1 2 | have a pin.
| 5 6 |
\ /
\------------/
Have fun!
Jeff Beadles jeff@onion.pdx.com
~~~~~eof~~~~~